My Last Word on Casting

Years ago a debate began in the fly shop over what exactly constitutes fly fishing. One of our guys, Gordy, was fishing with weighted nymphs but had strung his reel with monofilament and relied on the weight of the fly or flies, split shot and the strike indicator to make the cast. This is a relatively common Great Lakes steelhead technique but Gordy had adapted it to fishing local streams because he realized there was almost no resistance between the water and the mono and thus no drag; that allowed his nymph to sink immediately. The purists in the shop argued that that this method was really spin fishing with a fly

It should be noted that Gordy is the most iconoclastic person I know and challenges every bit of angling convention. If you tell him that there’s only one fly, condition, technique or time of day that will work to catch fish, Gordy will prove you wrong and delight in doing so. He even took me outside to teach me the technique and I’m able to report that it is possible to cast flies without fly line. However, when we go outside to practice our fly casting we use a fly line and a leader. We don’t have to tie a fly to the leader but we have to use a fly line, so what defines fly casting and fly fishing is the fly line. The purpose of this writing is to correctly define terms, eliminate confusion, and educate fly anglers.

We tell our students that there are three variables to control in order to improve as a fly angler: approach, presentation, and imitation. Approach is everything from walking the bank to wading into casting position. Presentation is casting and putting the fly at the trout’s feeding level. Imitation is the fly, its size, shape, color, and behavior. Of these presentation is by far the most important; casting is the name of the game. There are two kinds of casts, anchored and aerialized, and everything else is a mend.

Part I

An anchored cast is one in which the line stays on the water (anchored) prior to the forward cast to help load the rod. To load the rod means to make the rod bend. There are three anchored casts: the roll cast, the switch cast, and the spey cast.

The most common anchored cast is the roll cast. In a roll cast the rod is raised slowly to a point where the casting hand is level with the face, known as the key position, with the rod tip straight above you but slightly behind your shoulder. The fly line will hang straight down from the rod tip and forms what is called a shallow D-loop behind your shoulder with the rest of the line on the water straight out in front of you. To execute the roll cast accelerate your hand and stop hard about half way down.

The switch cast is a more efficient variation. In a switch cast the casting hand is raised about half way before the rod is swung to the side and the casting hand achieves the key position. This motion produces a deeper D-loop and leaves a minimum amount of line on the water, the effect of which is an easier, more efficient cast.

The drawback to any cast is that once resolved it’s difficult to execute another cast at a different target. A cast that has resolved is on the water at the target. Clever minds have solved the problem of launching a cast at a different target. This change of direction cast is called the spey cast. While there are almost as many methods of executing a spey cast as there are spey casters, the common link is that the D-loop must be 180 degrees opposite the new target. So the caster raises the rod and swings it like the switch cast but in a direction that will put the D-loop opposite the target when the rod hand reaches the key position.

Part II

An aerialized cast is one in which the line leaves the water to load the rod prior to the forward cast. If you count the false cast there are three aerialized casts, the other two being the elliptical cast and the pick-up and lay-down cast, the latter being most recognizable as fly casting. In order to execute either one the D-loop must be transformed into a back cast. To execute a back cast the caster lifts the line from the water with just enough force to aerialize the line when the rod hand reaches the key position.

In an elliptical cast the fly line is always in motion. The back cast is executed slightly outside the vertical plane and without a stop.The forward cast is executed in the vertical plane. This almost circular motion gives the cast its name and the line never stops moving until the cast resolves.

In the pick-up and lay-down cast the back cast and forward cast are executed in the same plane. That plane could be vertical or horizontal or anything in between. Additionally, there’s an obvious stop when the rod hand achieves the key position on the back cast and there’s an obvious stop completing the forward cast. The pick-up and lay-down cast is a little tricky for a beginner because when the rod hand stops at the key position, the caster must wait for the fly line to stop going backward before initiating the forward cast.

Finally, an aerialized cast that does not resolve is called a false cast. A false cast can be used to help change directions, dry a fly, time the presentation to the fish, or extend the cast. One false cast is usually sufficient to accomplish any of these objectives.

To recap, there are three anchored casts and three aerialized casts, including the false cast. Anything else is a mend.

Part III

To mend is to reposition the fly line on the water to achieve a longer drift. Drift is the behavior of the fly on or in the water. If the mend is accomplished after the cast has resolved it’s called an anchored or on-the-water mend. If the mend is accomplished before the cast resolves it’s called an aerial mend.

Over the years many magazine articles and chapters in books have been written about “casts” with names as various as parachute, dump, wiggle and reach. No less an authority than Joe Brooks incorrectly labeled some of them in his 1970 book, Trout Fishing. Indeed, every few years some delusional enthusiast will claim to have invented a new cast which earns him a magazine article and a fleeting notoriety…and further muddies the waters for folks interested in learning how to cast. Remember, there are two kinds of casts, anchored and aerialized. Everything else is a mend.

There are two kinds of anchored or on-the-water mends, horizontal and vertical. The more common of the two is the horizontal mend. This is accomplished after the cast resolves, obviously, by flipping the rod tip in a circular manner and tossing some slack line onto the water. If there is faster current between the fly and the angler the mend is thrown upstream. If there is slower current between the fly and the angler the mend is thrown downstream. Remember that the purpose of mending is to achieve a longer drift. Stack mending is when many small, short mends are thrown into the line in rapid succession.

An aerialized mend can take many forms and some of these have been mentioned earlier. In an aerial mend the slack is thrown into the line before the cast resolves (duh). There are two kinds of aerial mends, horizontal and vertical. Horizontal aerial mends are known by such terms as wiggle, curve, S, reach and slack line. Vertical aerial mends are known by such terms as dump, parachute, slack line and tuck. In any of these mends the rod tip is usually  manipulated after the stop. Wiggle the rod tip side to side and the line falls to the water in a series of curves. Move the rod tip upstream and back and you’ve produced a single, upstream mend. Stop the rod high on your forward cast and the leader will fall to the water in a pile.

So now you know there is a clear delineation between casting and mending. Now you can concentrate on your casting, perfecting your stroke and hitting your target. Once accomplished, you can work on mending the line and extending the drift. And never again will you be confused by muddy thinking and spurious explanations. Remember, there are two kinds of casts, anchored and aerialized. Everything else is a mend.

 FISHING IN SEPTEMBER

September is the time most anglers should be trout fishing. This is the month with the most pleasant weather and the time of year when the streams are least crowded. True, the hatches aren't as predictable and when they occur the insects are very small. Gone are the prolific hatches and larger insects of May and June.

But this paucity of insect activity has a silver lining. Instead of fishing an expected hatch you're free to fish the water, experiment with different rigs and tactics. Fish downstream with a wet fly or soft hackle. If nothing comes to the fly attach a split shot and try it again. Sometimes the fly just needs to be a little deeper. Naturally September is a good time to be fishing hoppers, but if their size offends you try a small beetle or an ant.

Try fishing a little later in the morning. Tricos usually begin their spinner fall when the air temp warms up to 67 or 68 degrees. Try fishing on a cool, drizzly day. That's Baetis weather and there's a better than even chance that the hatch will last all afternoon. Try fishing a streamer or big wet fly after dark. Lots of times this will move larger fish, even on streams that don't have a big fish reputation. Shorten the leader and fish the undercut banks. When it gets too dark to change flies it'll still be early enough to go home and get a good nights rest, unlike June when it stays light until 10:00 pm.

Good anglers are still fishing: They didn't get to be good anglers by not fishing. They're also catching fish: That's what makes them good anglers. Go wet a line, have some fun, explore, use your brain, play. September is a great month to go fishing. The fishing can be difficult but when you solve the problem and catch the fish the rewards are immense.

ON HIRING A GUIDE

My friend John, a very responsible and ethical guide, recently had a disappointing experience with a client he was guiding on a local stream. When he stopped in to see me and vent some steam he had already come to terms with the client but he was still upset because he's a responsible and ethical guide. Our conversation made me dwell on the practice of hiring a guide and the process of guiding itself. For what it's worth....

First, I never recommend hiring a guide and I don't take fees from guides for referrals. A responsible fly shop ought to be able to offer advice, guidance, a few of the right flies and a couple of access points on any local stream to any angler who wants help. Second, the only guides I refer customers to are people with whom I have a personal relationship. These are people I trust and I know that they're more interested in teaching than they are in using the resource for their personal gain. Third, I don't think anyone really needs a guide. The streams around here aren't so complicated that an average angler can't learn to fish them without assistance.

I just finished reading a captivating book entitled, MY STORY AS TOLD BY WATER, by David James Duncan. This is a book that EVERY angler ought to read and some ought to re-read. Duncan is a brilliant and colorful writer. If you fail to get the drift of his message he'll bludgeon you until you do. Witness Duncan on guides:

“...There are better than average guides. There are way better than average guides. There are gourmet scholar/artists of the river whose lives I respect, whose intelligences I envy, whose senses of humor create a market for Kleenex and whose company I cherish. But I still reject the basic service. The unavoidable problem is this:

Fly fishing guides accept payment in order to help clients circumvent their own ignorance. But ignorance is one of the most crucial pieces of equipment any fly fisher will ever own. Ignorance is a fertile but unplanted interior field. Solitary fly fishing isolates us in this field and leaves us no choice but to cultivate and plant and grow things in it. A guide on the other hand, is like a hired farmer who, for a price, drives his tractor into your interior and plants your field for you. When the two of you are finished, he may know what's growing inside you. But you sure as hell won't. Fly-fishing guides turn clients into the absentee landlords of their own interiors.

...Consider the osprey, the heron, the kingfisher. How much verbiage and instruction do these fish-catching geniuses bestow on their unschooled young? None. These prodigies pass on the primordial art by feeding their young vomited-up trout, which naturally makes the young yearn for nonvomited trout, which in turn makes the young sit up in the nest and observe their folks more closely, til it hits them: Eureka! I don't have to squat in this shithole eating puked-up fish all day! Look at Mom and Dad out there catching fish! Look at my wings, my beak, my talons! I've got everything they've got! What the hell have I been thinking! I CAN GO FISHING MYSELF!

Anglers! Look at your guides on their days off, unguidedly catching fish after fish! Look at your arms, your rod! Feel the heft and synaptic whir of your big cerebrum! You've got everything they've got! What the hell have you been thinking! YOU CAN GO FISHING YOURSELF!...

(c) 2001 David James Duncan

MY STORY AS TOLD BY WATER

Sierra Club Books, Crown Publishing Group
 
Damn! I wish I'd written that. 
 

ANIMAL PARTS

Yep, we've got a million of em. Folks. It's a funny business if you look at it the right way. Macabre, even: We sell animal parts. Tails, hides, faces, wings and plumage of every kind.

Most of the stuff I buy comes from wholesalers who specialize in dead animal parts and know how to preserve them to eliminate insect infestation. Even they make mistakes once in awhile and the results can be disastrous. I've had my personal fly tying materials invaded by pests that had infected the Fly Shop. Once they ate a whole calf tail right down to the hide, damn near. People who know what they're doing are very valuable in this trade. One of my fly suppliers keeps moth balls in his bulk flies and I can tell whose flies they are just by smelling them. Listen, it took me two whole years to debug this place, consequently I'm very fussy about the materials I buy.

Bob used to accept hides and capes from people for processing into fly tying material either for classes or for resale. What he couldn't get to right away he'd store in a box under the stairs...."Store" is perhaps too generous...tossed is more like it. That box became a bug factory and I threw it the hell out. It might not have been so bad if the folks who were donating the animal parts had cared for them better, and that's the reason for this diatribe.

If you want to preserve animal parts to augment your tying supplies here are some suggestions for you. Almost any part, a hide, neck, skin, tail or wing, can be bug-proofed by following some simple procedures. First, remove the fat. This means scraping the hide with a table knife, taper's knife or a deburred piece of sheet metal. Don't cut the hide, just get the fat off of it. Don't get the fat on the hair or feathers or you'll have to wash it before going on to the next step. Second, dry it thoroughly. The best way to do this is to pin it skin side up on a piece of cardboard and cover it with borax, which you can find in the laundry department of any grocery store. Pour the borax on it and let it sit for a few weeks until the hide is dry, dry, dry. Now brush the excess off and brush the feathers or fur with a toothbrush to clean 'em up a little and put the animal part in a ziplock bag. Add a couple of mothballs for added protection. 

WINTER ICE

Somebody asked me recently if the mild winter we've has thus far was going to make things easier for the trout. The questioner was interested in the effects of ultra cold water on trout eggs and fry and that got me to thinking about trout survival again.

We all know that trout streams are special places because of the copius groundwater that keeps them cool. Ironically, the same groundwater keeps the stream relatively warm in winter: Cold is just a relative absence of heat. Good trout streams are usually free of ice in winter. You might see some shelf ice along the edges when it gets really cold but it won't be frozen over like a warm water stream or a marginal trout stream will be. Temperatures in a marginal trout are too warm in summer and too cold in winter. Water that is too cold will not incubate trout eggs. Too warm is lethal for trout, too cold is lethal for trout eggs...a double whammy.

There are two kinds of ice that can form in a trout stream, frazile ice and anchor ice. Frazile ice is formed when the water super cools on very cold nights. Ice crystals actually form in the water column, further cooling the water. Even good trout streams can cool off at night under these conditions and a marginal trout stream has a lower buffering capacity because of its lack of groundwater. Anchor ice is formed on the bottom of the stream during these same very cold periods. I can't remember if it's a separate kind of ice or whether it was frazile ice that anchors to the bottom. In any event the effect is the same...it covers the bottom and every living organism on it, from invertibrate larva to trout eggs. If they freeze, they die.

So, the mild winter we've been having will have some positive effects, although you might not be able to measure them. First, trout survival will be relatively high because water temps were improved and bottom-dwelling invertibrates didn't die off. Second, trout eggs didn't get frozen either and they might actually hatch a day or two earlier than normal if the water temps were higher than normal. We'll probably never notice these results, although we'll all admire the condition of the first trout we catch this season. We should, because while it's a pastime for us, a pleasant diversion, for a trout it's a life and death struggle.

Mike

A PRIMER ON WINTER FISHING

You need two things to increase your success during our two states' (WI & MN) winter trout seasons. First, you need some basicknowledge about trout behavior and insect populations. Second, you need to employ a certain flexibility in applying your craft at this time of year.

While mountain streams are sparkling clear and postcard perfect our local streams usually have some color. Let's explore the reasons for this difference. Mountain streams are high gradient streams which have eroded their stream course to bedrock and the bedrock is usually igneous.

Local streams are lower gradient, flowing through valleys rich with alluvial soil and a edimentary bedrock. In addition, mountain streams are not very fertile because they lack nutrients and a mineral content. Our local spring creeks have both, receiving their nutrients from watershed run-off and spring seeps and their mineral content from the calcium carbonate leached from the limestone.

OK, the next question is why are our local streams clearer in winter than in summer? Those of you who have fished the winter season will recognize this phenomenon: When you see the lower Kinni in March it's almost as clear as a mountain stream. The answer is that all those nutrients in our local streams foster algae growth and when the algae dies back in winter the stream clears.

Therefore, in winter you are more likely to find trout in deep water than shallow water. Because the water is clearer they'll seek deeper water to assure their safety. The successful angers in the winter season will be seeking out the deeper holes and fishing their nymph or scud as close to the bottom as possible.

Most trout stream insects are herbivores. They're specifically adapted to foraging leafy material or algae and the excrement of other organisms. Yes, you read that correctly. Thus does a stream cleanse itself. The materials these insects forage are either called coarse or fine organic particulate matter (COPM or FOPM). All of these materials are found on the stream bottom, which is why you find the insects there. Since the water is colder in winter these invertebrates will be less active. As the water warms the insects become more active and more available to the trout based on their particular biology.

Even in the dead of winter insects will be available for the trout's dinner.Probably the earliest of these will be the winter stoneflies. I've seen these insects struggling on the water's surface in late January and various species will hatch through April. On good spring creeks scud populations are abundant and, relative to other insects at this time of year, one of the more important trout foods. Though it's possible to find a Baetis dun on the snow on Valentines Day, the Baetis nymphs really begin to grow and become more active in March preparatory to their emergence in April. And some time in April the Ephemerella nymphs will undergo the same behavioral changes prior to their emergence in May. So, now you have a general idea of what to expect and when.

Now for flexible, a relative term if ever there was one. If the trout are in the deeper holes you'll need to adjust your depth. If you tie you should either tie with tungsten beads, wrap heavier lead wire on your hook shank or add lead beads or split shot to your leader. You'll need to move your indicator incrementally farther away from the fly until you start hooking fish. You'll also have to carry some flies that

aren't as heavily weighted because...guess what?...this year my informants tell me they're finding fish in shallower runs and riffles.  And,as the water warms with Spring's arrival, more and more fish will move into the riffles to feed. Be prepared.

As a final note, you will occasionally find fish rising to midges, winter stones and the sporadic Baetis in the middle of winter in even flows. These fish are small. The larger fish are in the deeper water. But, if catching four inch tiddlers is your idea of trout fishing heaven, by all means tie on a dry fly leader and go crazy.
 

RANDOM NOTES ON THE HEX HATCH

Hexigenia is a big mayfly, with the duns measuring approximately 30 millimeters. This is one of those hatches that causes fish to strap on the feed bag. Please note that I said "fish" and not just trout, because lots of other fish will eat these insects if they've got the chance. When walleye anglers start complaining about the walleyes being off the feed you can pretty much be assured that it's because the fish have switched over to these large and succulent insects. Which of course gives walleye anglers fits because they can't break out of the leech-on-the-bottom mentality. In fact, walleyes will even feed on these insects on the surface like bass or trout!

Generally speaking this hatch progresses from the west to the east and from the south to the north. It usually starts showing up around Park Rapids about the 10th of June, starts around Grand Rapids a few days later and Ely a week or so later. It's usually reliable on the North Shore by the 4th of July. Old Timers swear that you can count on it on the Brule or the White by June 15th but it doesn't seem to really rock n roll until a week or so later. The Clam has a fishable emergence about the same time.

In most areas the emergence lasts two or three weeks, but I've found Hex on the Kinni as late as August 8th. The Kinni used to have a massive Hex hatch but for some reason the numbers have dwindled. The last time I saw a fishable hatch on the Power Line Pool was in the mid 80's. Today your best bets for fishing this emergence will be on wilder rivers or lakes farther from home. Naturally we carry Hex patterns, some of which are unique to our shop, but if all you do is carry a # 8 White Wulff you'll be in business. Fish it with some action as the Hex makes quite a commotion on the surface when emerging.

Strike Indicators and Fishing Deep

Have you ever fished Hay Creek near Red Wing? If you have you know it ranges in width from 6-15 feet. How deep is it? If you've fished often you know that it's loaded with fish, yet most winter anglers are happy if they catch three or four trout there on any given outing. How about a nice big rhetorical "Why?"

Gordy fished it two days in succession the week before. He picked up a fish here and there before reaching a pool he anticipated fishing. He told me that no matter how carefully he drifted his nymph through the pool, he didn't start picking up fish until he'd raised his strike indicator to eight feet! He caught about a dozen fish from that hole and finished the two days with over fifty fish.

So the answer to the rhetorical querie posed earlier is that you're not fishing deep enough. In winter when the water temperatures plummet south of 40 degrees F, trout really need to conserve energy and will not move far for food. Even though the invertebrate larvae are active, grazing and growing through a number of instars, they are only available to the trout on the bottom. OK, occasionally you might see a winter stonefly or some midge activity, but for the most part, insects don't hatch in the middle of winter, or hadn't you noticed? Ergo, you must fish your nymph on the bottom, adding or subtracting weight and raising or lowering your strike indicator as conditions dictate. The key to this winter fishing is to adapt. So, take a reality pill and do what Gordy says: Adjust to conditions.

I first encountered the concept of changing conditions and the need to adjust to meet those conditions in the 1981 book, JOE HUMPHREYS' TROUT TACTICS. Humphrey is bombastic, but he hammered home the point until even I got it. Without belaboring the point. Let me just offer you two concepts. First, in dry fly fishing what matters most is the diameter and length of the tippet. It's these two factors that allow you to best compensate for surface currents in order to get a drag free float. Second, in nymph fishing what matters most is getting the fly down to the fishes level. To do that you have to adjust the amount of weight on the leader as well as adjust the strike indicator to the correct depth.

There are other factors of course, like fly selection, leader design, casting ability and approach. But, other than casting ability, the two factors I mentioned earlier are supreme. If you're not willing to adjust your tippet when fishing dry or adjust your depth when nymphing, you'll be missing fish. Reread TROUT TACTICS if you need a refresher...it belongs on every serious anglers book shelf.

What To Do In The Off-Season

I've never felt bad because the trout season was over. I've always believed that the fish needed a break. I know that my opinion is in the minority camp, because many of you are still whining because the season's over. But of course, you have choices. Some of you will go south to hit the salt or west to fish the desert streams. Iowa's trout season is open year 'round, so that's another possibility. The more civilized among us like to sip a little port and re-read our notes from the season just ended. What do you mean, you don't keep notes? You should, because it helps you track critical information like weather, emergences and effective imitations. We've got a dandy little notebook in the shop that'll help make it easy for you.

Most people could profit from watching a couple of casting videos or reading a good book on nymph fishing. And everybody needs to do some equipment maintenance. This process includes inspecting, cleaning, repairing or replacing where necessary. Let's start by looking at your rods. The first thing you should do is look for nicks in the finish. If the rod is in good shape you can polish it with a soft cloth (a little lemon oil is a nice touch) and then scrub the cork with a Comet or Soft Scrub. Rinse the grip thoroughly before recasing it. If the rod had nicks in the finish there's a possibility it will fold sometime in the future, so don't be surprised when it does. Now run a nylon stocking through each guide, including the tip top. If you find one with a nick you can polish it out with .0000 steel wool. Your rod is now ready for the coming season.

Before you tackle your reel, let's clean and inspect your fly line. Peel the front end of your fly line off the reel and look at it under a magnifier. Examine the junction between the leader and the line. Chances are the line is cracked at that point, so cut the leader off and continue examining the rest of the line for cracks. If the line is cracked all the way into the forward taper, take the line off and throw it away if it's a weight forward. If it's a double taper you could turn it around if you haven't already used the other end. If there aren't any other cracks, all you'll have to do is clean the line and possibly redress it. To clean a fly line, dump the front end into the sink with some warm water and a little dishwashing liquid. Scrub the front end with a soft cloth, rinse it and let it dry before rewinding it. If it's still dirty, stop by for a cleaning pad. Use the mildly abrasive side to clean off the remaining dirt by gently rubbing the line with it. Dress it with a line dressing, let the wax harden over night, then buff it with a soft cloth and put it back on your reel.

Now how about your reel? Take the spool off and look at the inside. If it's not dirty just put it back together. If it's dirty (most of 'em are) use a soft, lint free cloth to clean off the dirt and grease. Don't use a paper towel, it'll shred. And don't use a degreaser. Put a little mineral spirits on the cloth to do a better job. You can wash it under under running water too, but you'll have to use a toothbrush to do a really thorough job. After the reel is dry lube the spindle with a good reel oil or a light machine oil and put a tiny amount of light grease on the gear teeth and you're done.

Baetis

While most anglers in the early season are searching for the big Dark Hendrickson, around here the most predictable hatch in the spring is the Baetis or Blue Wing Olive. It seems to be true that the emergence of the larger (size 12) Hendrickson dun will draw lots of trout to the surface, particularly large ones. However, the little Baetis seems to be the bread and butter of the trout's feed bag.

The only real problem with this mayfly is that you don't always get what you expect. You might have great fishing to duns for three days and then they just don't appear on the fourth day. Or maybe the pattern that worked so well on Tuesday and Wednesday won't work at all on Thursday. In order to fish the Baetis successfully, i.e. be prepared for any contingency, you need to carry half a dozen patterns and be prepared to change strategies in order to cover all the bases.

First, you need to carry a nymph. Baetis nymphs are rather slim, so carry a pheasant tail or a sparsely dubbed hare's ear. Baetis is classified by taxonomists (biologists who don't have enough to do) as a small minnow mayfly, meaning that it's a damn good swimmer. If you use a weighted fly, you might want to jig the fly slightly to produce some movement. If you use an unweighted fly, put a split shot on the leader and fish the fly just off the bottom.

Second, carry an emerger. To mimic an actively swimming Baetis, fish our Blue Dun Emerger downstream and across. Remember, Baetis are good swimmers. To mimic a Baetis that's struck in the film, fish a floating nymph or Tracy's CDC Baetis. They get stuck there because they're so small they have a hard time breaking through the surface tension. It's one of the reasons they seem to emerge from riffles - the surface tension there is already broken.

Third, carry a couple of different dun patterns. Why, you ask. The answer is that every pattern produces a different profile or behavioral characteristic. Some days they'll prefer one profile to another. Other times it will seem as through each fish will want a different pattern. If you tie your own keep your patterns slim to better mimic the naturals. A quill or biot body will accomplish this but if you prefer dubbing, a good color can be obtained by mixing brown, grey and olive in equal amounts. If you purchase your flies the Comparadun or Sparkledun are beautiful frauds.

Fourth, carry two spinner patterns, one wet and one dry. While some species of Baetis lay their eggs on the surface, some crawl or swim to the bottom to lay theirs. The spinner fall usually occurs in the evening or late afternoon, but can also occur in the morning. Most of us have had the experience of being in the stream after the hatch has shut down while the fish continued to rise. We couldn't see anything so we assumed the fish were eating midges. They were probably eating spinners, which is why you didn't catch anything. If you carry a few you'll be catching fish when no one else is. That'll make you feel like an expert.